Arzel Zoning
Get the full list of Arzel damper options so you can offer zoning comfort solutions in more places. Our EzySlide dampers are great for most applications, but we also have sleeved dampers, and insertable dampers like InsertaDamper, EzyFit, and RegiDamper.
The damper is actually called the EzySlide, because it slides into the duct. And that’s where it gets its name. And you can get them sleeved if you want. So we do sell sleeve dampers if you prefer them to be in a sleeve.
But when you get the damper it’s going to come with that crack and peel template. You’re going to put it on to the duct. I personally like to take a step bit and drill out a couple of holes in here and then cut it out. Makes it a little less, fishhooky, and potential for stitches. Slide the damper in cross-sectional, give it a quarter turn. Put in four screws, and then there’s the color-coded tubing.
Tubing colors. We sell both what we call PVC, which is the standard tubing, and we sell a UL-approved smoke and fire-rated for in the duct stream if you need it. That’s the plenum-rated.
They all come with the color tracer. Now, the nice thing about that is, you know, it’s just not miles and miles of brown thermostat wire. You know, you can go into a job ten years later and these are all on that red zone, right? And these are all in at white zone. Just makes it easier for troubleshooting and coming back.
Tubing is very reasonably priced. You get 200ft per roll. There’s really not a limitation on how far you can run a damper. If you were to literally put a damper on a 200-foot roll of tubing, it would just be the equivalent – remember, I keep saying you can have 35 up to 40 dampers per system – one entire roll of tubing would be like adding one more damper to your system. But there’s no real ill effect by having it further away.
We also offer the InsertaDamper. This was originally made for a contractor here locally for a, duct system below slab. So, you’d reached down into the slab system, release it, it grabbed the pipe.
After making it, contractors started realizing there were other uses for it. So, you know, the normal was: reach down into the system, deploy it, the damper’s installed. It’s all internal.
But what if you had a takeoff that comes right off the top of your supply, and either this run goes across and is sandwiched in between the ceiling of the man cave and the first floor. You don’t necessarily want to talk to your customer about like, “Listen, you got five runs going through your man cave. We need to blast holes in the drywall, put access panels…” and all this other nonsense. What if you could just put the access in the bottom of your trunk line, and reach the damper up and through? This will go through a standard start collar, adjustable elbow. And then go inside and put your patch right here. I mean, I’d rather I’d rather do this than the man cave, right?
So, we make those in six, seven and eights. We can do five, nine and ten-inch if, if you happen to need those. And the dampers I’m showing you, these are not going to get you out of every situation. But hopefully they open up a few more opportunities for you.
If I personally, if I hit five runs above the man cave and my only option was to blast drywall and put an access panel in or bury the dampers, never to be seen again, I probably wouldn’t even have the conversation with my customer. I’d just be like, you know what? I don’t even want it. It’s just…right?
“Hey, how do you feel about blasting a bunch of holes in your man cave? Sounds great, right?”
-That conversation never ends well.
Exactly. But if I could go, like, “Hey, you know what? Arzel has a solution. I can do this.” That’s what these are for. Just to maybe open up a few more opportunities.
Second one, RegiDamper. This is my least favorite Arzel damper. Only because it’s not gasketed. It has blades that move. And quite frankly, if you have enough static pressure behind here, you could get a little whistling. Okay, that’s one thing. The other would be sometimes with transitioning you could get a, you know, tapping into the blade or something.
You know, our other dampers open and close, virtually completely silent. Doesn’t mean it’s bad. We don’t have a lot of complaints or anything about these. I’m just giving you enough knowledge to know that you may want to consider, “Where are these going?”
If this is going in the master bedroom, and she’s very noise sensitive, it may not be the best solution. If this is going in the mudroom by the washer and dryer, put it in a laundry room! You think she’s going to complain about a register with a little whistling noise while the washer and dryer is going?
So again, another option for you. Probably not our very best, but still not a bad option for you.
And as kind of a solution for this guy, we came out with the EzyFit, which contractors have nicknamed “the taco damper.” So that’s this guy here. This is a flexible magnetic mat to hold it into place. The blade springs. It’s hinged. So it kind of looks like a taco shell. So now, it’s only that thick, you can reach down through the register bent, reach down into the supply duct, deploy it. The blade springs back to its normal round shape, and the magnetic mat holds it into place so it doesn’t go anywhere. But if I need to access it later, I can take the floor register up, reach back down through, and then pull it out onto the kitchen floor or wherever it happens to go.
You still have to be able to pull a tube from point A to point B. I can’t always tell you how to do that, but there’s going to be some jobs, you’re going to look and go, you know what? My duct is right here. I know the runs go right above that man cave. I can certainly run a fish tape through there.
A fish tape with a wiffle ball or a ping pong ball on the end of it, goes through like butter. I mean, it’s super easy. It’s just a matter of, is it going to come out somewhere where you can grab it? If you’re trying to do it from the second floor and you’re fishing it down through and you have no idea where it’s even going to land, you probably can’t use one of these things. But if it’s, you know, one of those jobs where, hey, you know what? Certainly, this is going to come out somewhere in here and I can access the main trunk. I just can’t get to it because it’s sandwiched between drywall. Then you might be able to use one of these options.
And then lastly, our Balance Pro. Limited sizes in the rectangular. Most of your common sizes in the round. So why would you need a beefed-up, balance damper on steroids? Well, there’s a couple of reasons. You know what a normal damper quad looks like when you put it in the duct, right? It’s like half an inch shorter all the way around, it’s usually laying in the duct at some weird angle, and it barely even closes, and it flops around and it rattles and it’s almost nonfunctional. This is going to sit in your duct exactly the way you want it to. Ball valve handle. You can lock it into the position you want. You know, you’re not going to come back next year and it’s flopping around again.
What about putting in the balance damper if there’s not one there? A normal damper quad, you have to reach inside of the duct with the blade. How easy is it to get that section of the pipe apart in somebody’s home or business? Most of the time you can. Now you can just take the same template, cut out a triangle, slide it in and four screws and boom, you’re done.
I mean, I can think of probably two dozen jobs throughout my career where, man, if I could have just easily gotten a balance damper in there, it would have saved me some issues or helped me out considerably. But I didn’t because, I’m not going to mess around here for two hours trying to get a $3 damper quad inside this thing. So that’s where these come in.
Installation tool kit. You do not need a special tool kit to install our system. You basically just need your drill, a quarter-inch chuck, and a pair of snips, and you could do probably the whole job. The kit just gives you that nice one-stop shopping while you’re putting a system in.
It has all your fittings, it has a bunch of screws. Come with one of our EzyHubs, which is a manifold. A testing tool.
This is just a noise maker; basically, you put it into the duct. What we found years ago was, you cut your triangle shape into all your branch runs. And then you were unsure if this run went to the second floor bathroom or did it go to the second floor kid’s bedroom? We used to put our pagers up in to the register boot and then dial ourselves and then like, you know, acoustically, you could tell like, “Wow, this this is the kid’s bedroom. I can hear my pager going off.” This thing just emits noise, has a magnet on it. You turn it on, it emits noise. You can go down in the basement, go right. This is the run that my noisemaker is in.
And then lastly, the staple gun and the staples, which during the, install exercise we’ll show you, but these staples have this black piece molded into them. It’s basically a form fitting clamp for all your tubing. So when you’re installing a job, it’s just bottom of the floor joist, down to plywood down to the panel. And the guys that get these, typically we go through more staples than we do, I think fittings and screws, just because guys start running everything with it. They go home and they run their cat5 with it and their cable television, and they run water lights for humidifiers, and they staple it. So it’s really pretty handy to have. But again, you don’t need this tool kit to install the system.